All News

$8k cash purchase price, $800 deposit due before delivery. The vendor wants me to call them with my bank account info so they can initiate an ACH payment. Nothing has been signed, but we have a detailed written quote. The vendor is legit and has good reviews. Can this guy just clear my bank account if he wanted? What recourse do I have to make sure transfers $800 and nothing more? submitted by /u/repohs [link] [comments]

My back hurts every morning and I'm finally accepting that my 8 year old mattress is done. I've been researching for weeks and I'm more confused than when I started. Every review site ranks them differently and I'm pretty sure most are getting paid for recommendations. I'm a side sleeper, around 200 pounds, and need something that won't hurt my shoulders but also supports my lower back. Medium firm seems like what I need but that's subjective and meaningless. Budget is flexible, willing to spend 1500-2000 if it's actually worth it but also don't want to overpay for marketing hype. The bed in a box brands are convenient but I'm worried about buying something I can't try first even though they have trial periods. For people who've gone through mattress shopping recently, how did you actually decide and are you happy with what you got? And is there any way to cut through the BS reviews and figure out what's actually quality vs just good marketing? submitted by /u/Inner-Ad5926 [link] [comments]

A coworker is having some home renovations done soon. They told me they will only allow the contractor in the home when they are home for the work. I said that was a bit odd. Why wouldn’t you let the contractor work on your home when you aren’t home? Question: is it normal to always want to be home while the contractor is working? submitted by /u/440hzhwy2hell [link] [comments]

The title pretty much says it all…The heating and aircon systems work gangbusters during the appropriate seasons so I’m sure there is a lot of swelling and contracting of the wood. Not sure it matters but the doors are original (c. 1930). Image of door: https://imgur.com/a/JldLoI0 Thanks for your advice! submitted by /u/CommunityBig9626 [link] [comments]

We are winding down a bath remodel. I dropped a pair of pliers on the new vanity. It caused 2 small chips on the stone top. Right up front where it's very noticeable. Any suggestions on repair. submitted by /u/Impossible_Ball_1008 [link] [comments]

Woke up today went down to basement and found about a gallon or more of water. Under and around my furnace Anyone have any ideas?? submitted by /u/Opposite_Potential_6 [link] [comments]

I just had 2 Velux sun tunnels added a dark room. Based on reviews, I was expecting...more light. Two factors: it's fall where I am so the sun is lower in the sky and they are installed on a north-facing roof (however, at the very top of the roof almost at the ridgeline, so it's not like the sun is being blocked). I can see the sun is shining directly on the solar tube dome, but I'm estimating the light output below to be probably a 10W nightlight bulb output. I was measuring with a lux meter (which I know is hard to translate), and am getting 300lx right at the surface of the ceiling. It pretty much just looks like the light that I would have gotten if I cut a hole in the room ceiling and then another hole in the roof, and didn't have any solar tube there at all. Should I question if the roofers installed the solar tube correctly? It feels...off. (I'd post pics, but I don't think that's allowed here.) submitted by /u/QuixoteKnights [link] [comments]

Hello, home improvement folks! I recently inherited my mom’s house. Several years ago she hired someone to build an 8 ft x 8 ft “little house” in her backyard. It had plywood walls and windows made of screen material, but it truly looked awful so she had me tear the walls down and just leave the four posts and the roof. Unfortunately, the man she hired encased the four posts in concrete, which are crooked and unsightly. Ideally I would remove the concrete and then attach the wood posts to the ground, but is removing the concrete even possible? The end goal is to turn this into a catio for my cats, so it would be easiest to have four plain wood posts to work with. Alternatively, I’ve considered encasing the concrete pillars in wood to hide them, or painstakingly replacing each post. What would you do? (I’ll post photos in the comments.) submitted by /u/woolsockmonster [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/ryu-takayama [link] [comments]

https://postimg.cc/gallery/1ySXZKk I questioned their work and they said it was just different and it was okay, but it does not make sense to leave anything exposed, also I can imagine drops of water forming and rolling back towards the brick. There are also screws on the under part of the vinyl, not sure of that is right either. I checked all my neighbors and all of them have that last piece of vinyl at the bottom which makes sense. Aesthetically I can ignore it, but functionally I need to know if I should be concerned. submitted by /u/Normal_Loquat_3869 [link] [comments]

I need to insulate the entire house, but I'm starting with one room. I'm living here while I fix it and it's already getting cold, so I want a proper room built. My question is can you put paneling directly against faced insulation or do you need to drywall it? submitted by /u/Embarrassed_Boat9416 [link] [comments]

have a minor roof leak into my bedroom. It appears to be the 2x3ft cricket pan behind the chimny where two steep roofs meet. Both roofers said it wasn't installed correctly its fairly rusty and the flashing looks worn. One said theyre going to have to strip back that side of the roofs to the peaks and re do everything at 8-10k. The other said they can cover up the cricket area and re do the flashing at 4k. What do you think? Id rather not pay 8-10k but I also want to do it right the first time. Thanks for any input. submitted by /u/realquickquestion96 [link] [comments]

Hey everyone, I hope this is the right place to ask for this kind of help- I confess that I'm very much an amateur when it comes to this sort of thing. I'm trying to repair a shelf and hanger rail in my closet. They're from an old ClosetMaid system that was already installed in the closet when I bought the house- probably several owners ago. The shelf is mounted to the closet's back wall with screws and plastic brackets, and both the shelf and rail are attached to the closet's left wall with a bracket like this. However, there is nothing securing the shelf and rail to the wall on the right side. The rail simply attaches to the shelf with a hook like this and the shelf hangs loose. This seems to have been done because the closet's "right wall" is actually a layer of drywall covering one side of a full-height recessed cabinet that was installed from the bathroom on the other side of the closet's back wall. Effectively, the installer walled off part of the bedroom closet to make a bathroom closet. There seem to be no studs on this wall- or at least, there's none where one would need to be. So if one were to try to install a bracket for the shelf and rail on the right wall of the bedroom closet, one would need to drill a hole through the right wall of the bathroom cabinet. Obviously, that's not the prettiest solution. But of course, leaving one side of the shelf and rail unsecured the way they did is problematic; recently, the weight of the clothes on that rail pulled it and the shelf off the wall. I've made one attempt to fix this already. I re-mounted the shelf by replacing the small brackets on the back wall. I got a proper shelf and rail mounting bracket. Then, rather than putting holes through the right wall, I removed the anchors from the shelf and rail bracket and just glued it to the right wall with gorilla glue. Bad idea. That held for about two weeks before the shelf came down again, ripping a chunk out of the surface of the drywall. Now, I figure I can patch the damaged drywall with joint compound, but I need to figure out how to properly mount the shelf and rail to the right wall. At this point, I think it's clear that I'll have to drill through the closet's right wall into the cabinet. But I'm worried that if I install molly anchors or toggle bolts there, I'll have the long back side of the bolts coming through into the inside of the cabinet. It would be nice if I could make it pretty somehow, but at minimum, I'd rather not have those there for people to scratch their arms on. So my latest idea is to instead use two machine screws with large washers on the cabinet side of the wall and secure them to the shelf and rail bracket on the closet side with washers and nuts. Do you think that is likely to work or is there a better way? tl;dr - How do I properly mount a shelf to a wall that has a cabinet on the other side? submitted by /u/Rathwood [link] [comments]

Bathroom was gutted down to studs. The sub floor are these 3/4 in thick strip planks. Do install the tub on these planks, or do i add another 1/2 inch of subflooring on top then install the tub? The plan is to use lvp flooring. Also, do add a waterproof barrier in-between each subfloor, or can I just get fancy waterproof subflooring ontop of the original subfloor? submitted by /u/gibson486 [link] [comments]

Do I need to remove the vacuum breaker and the y splitter off of my hose bibs or can I leave them on for the winter? I’ve not found a straight answer to this. Thank you in advance! submitted by /u/bluburuberi [link] [comments]

Just bought a 75 year old house, and all it has is old 2 prong recepticals with no ground wire, and i definitely wanna avoid paying to get them all rewired. Im thinking of swapping them with GFCI outlets, but my understanding of electrical is pretty novice and im not sure how safe or effective that is for daily long term use. Any advice is appreciated! submitted by /u/MayoChickenzx [link] [comments]

Thinking of leveling the ground a bit here at the side of the house for a smaller garden section. Figure just do a hard drop right by the bush there and come out from the house about 5 or 6 ft. https://imgur.com/a/Cn4ThUn However, not something ive ever takeled before. Any considerations for it being right by the side of the house and just filling with top soil? Its the basement right behind it. Should I use blocks or wood to keep it from the side directly? Or maybe just better ideas? submitted by /u/Rydisx [link] [comments]

I received two foundation estimates. The first said we needed about 5k of work, the 2nd said they didn't want to create unnecessary work and recommended repairing the exterior trim. The home is a pier and beam foundation. The first guy gave me some sort of PDF and lots of images of under the house, the PDF has some kind of measurements starting at 0.0 and negative numbers in other places with the largest being a -1.0. So I ask, should I get a third estimate.. do y'all think work actually needs to be done on this? First guy wants to reshim everything, 2nd guy says nothing needs to be done really. submitted by /u/P3n1sD1cK [link] [comments]

Hi guys, I got this screen it's long 2.3m and weights around 15kg (33 lbs?), I was sure the ceiling was concrete, but I'm wrong apparently and it's made of hollow bricks, the thickness is around 2-2,5cm (0.78-1 inch?), it has only 2 hooks to hold it. Any suggestions? Thanks https://imgur.com/a/cGYokuZ Picture of the screen and video of the ceiling inside submitted by /u/Ghostly_xyz [link] [comments]

Hi all, My parents had our windows installed in the summer of 2024 by Centra windows with hi performance heat retaining glass. I’m located in the PNW. Last fall-spring, in the early mornings, the outside of the windows fog up and collect water. It looks as if it rained outside when it didn’t. Centra said the glass needed at least 6 months to “stabilize” and it will go away by next fall. It’s now next fall and it’s happening again. To clarify this is happening only to the outside of the glass were it is exposed to the elements and only during fall to spring. This did not happen to the original windows. Is this a sign of the new windows failing or working? Not sure if this is normal or not. Thoughts? I would attach a photo but looks like this sub won’t allow attachments? submitted by /u/vinwindin [link] [comments]

We had a water heater slow leak from the bottom which led to mold growth around the base. This is mostly on paint on drywall etc, on the walls. The floor is just concrete but this water has leaked across the floor and I'm sure mold spores would be carried in it right? The mold will be cleaned when the water heater is replaced and we are likely rebuilding a new base/platform it stands on. I plan to cover it all with a mold inhibitor paint primer before repainting. And Concrobium seems a decent cleaner I can get at local depot. Once the project is done, I'm still worried about any spores that floated around the laundry room and may be sitting on random surfaces, laundry, walls, behind washer/dryer etc. And especially the concrete floor. Is this something I need to worry about? Do I need to go ape nuts and start bleaching every object in the whole room and wash walls and ceiling? Will any loose spores just die on their own? I do own an ozone machine and I've heard mixed feelings about weather running that would effectively kill runaway spores. I've also seen those UV lights praised, but I'm not sure if that's a gimmic since it always seems to be affiliate sales that push them. I've seen these goofy wall heater things you attach to a wall and plug in and it heats the wall, supposedly preventing and killing any mold that might still be embedded in the wall. I've heard very very mixed feelings about the effectiveness of regular bleach cleaners and peroxide cleaners. Do I need to run a fan on the area for some length of time to make sure it's super dry before installing the next heater? Run a heated fan? We obviously want to replace the tank as quick as possible and not be without hot water too long, but if the area was good and moistened, I'm not sure how long it could take to dry out. We live in the high desert so humidity is not something we're familiar with. We also have a budget and can't be hiring specialists and buying expensive chemicals and equipment. And I don't mean "budget" like I don't want to dip in my rich savings account. I mean like we're completely spent and all this has to go on credit card as it is. What should we do to make sure the whole room is good and sanitized of any lingering mold that may have floated into the air? submitted by /u/guyinpv [link] [comments]

I know there are cheap products from Wayfair, but they have such a beat variety of products that I was wondering if the quality depends on what you buy. In this case I'm thinking of a closet organization products. But my question is mostly meant to be general. submitted by /u/FreshDP [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/lq6gGDv I’m not sure what this is called, attic vent? I looked in the roofing aisle and couldn’t find anything that looked like this. I have one on each side of the house and want to fix it immediately. I’m going to get up there and measure it tomorrow. submitted by /u/shitidkman [link] [comments]

I noticed a creaking when opening my side door. I thought it was the joints, but on a closer inspection I realized the door trim/siding is being pulled off the brick wall (2nd pic). Can I just screw the trim back to the brick or there a better way? https://imgur.com/gallery/ycIIV0B submitted by /u/Western-Factor-591 [link] [comments]

I have a home that has effectively half basement/half crawlspace area under the house. Half of it is basically a drive in garage/unfinished basement and the other half, separated by bricks, is dirt. I want it to be all basement. Have you had this done and if so how much should I expect it to cost? Is there any reason not to do this if I'm planning to live in my house for at least the next five years? submitted by /u/ilikecakeandpie [link] [comments]