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I need an extra hole in the kitchen sink portion of the granite. Called for a company to do it and it’s upward of $300 to get one hole drilled. Diamond drill bit is around $45. I’ve watched videos and it seems simple enough although technique is needed, I get it. Am I crazy? submitted by /u/Independent_Owl_6770 [link] [comments]

There was no wall in my wall https://imgur.com/a/IrWhwaU submitted by /u/timonix [link] [comments]

Hi, the title itself. My room has no windows, only a door that is always closed due to privacy reasons. Moving out is not an option at the moment as I am caring for my sick father. Now here’s the issue, since moving in (about 8 months ago), my asthma worsened, my room feels hot when I go inside it, but super cold at night. I’ve recently done a deep cleaning and found white spots (which I assume is mould), as per google suggested, I wiped it with vinegar and bleach, then wiped it with a dry towel. Then, I found out my floors (tiles) are always damp despite not having water sources nearby. Further, my walls (pure cement) seem to sweat. Lastly, my room smells like an old attic, like a wet wood smell. No matter how much I wipe it with dry towels, mops, or tissues, it’s still damp. What can I do about it? Thank you.🙏 submitted by /u/itchinm3i [link] [comments]

I have a slider that can be used to open from either end but have an extra opening where the hardware would go. Is there a piece I can purchase to fill in the gap? submitted by /u/Lopsided-Athlete466 [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/5oxxQpJ We have a one car garage that is racking or slanting to the left. I’ve attempted to show this by adding finger drawn vertical red lines. The foundation is concrete and looks to be in good condition. Are there any good ways to bring the garage back to vertical? Once done I believe adding additional bracing internally will keep it there. Maybe chains can be used? Id like to utilize a method that causes the least damage and puts the operator at the least amount of risk. submitted by /u/PlusAdhesiveness438 [link] [comments]

I'm looking to repair a section of damaged stucco along the corner of my home. Based on an initial google search it looks like the metal casing bead is also damaged. In terms of a DIY repair, what would be the best way to go about this? I was thinking to try and straighten out the casing bead along the bottom and apply the stucco patch? https://imgur.com/a/oyq1B4H submitted by /u/PlasticAmex [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/mdpVrSu We’re looking at a property that has multiple screw jacks in the basement. One jack (pictured) supports a damaged floor joist at the location it has been sistered with another partial length joist. Another screw jacks supports the higher edge of a stair stringer of the stairs leading to the basement. Are these screw jacks an acceptable form of support - long term? If so much addition afford be made to keep them from sliding out of place? Bolts into control, nails into wood, etc? submitted by /u/PlusAdhesiveness438 [link] [comments]

So this is the second time there’s been a mysterious soaked spot on my rug in my room. I have 3 rugs layered on top of each other and I checked under them both times and the wetness was only on the top two layers. Not all the way thru to the base carpet. So I’m having a hard time understanding where it’s coming from?!? I do have aquariums in my room but no where near where the spot happens. It’s mainly the top rug that’s soaked. Today I was at work all day so there’s no way it was a spill or something. Last time I decided it must’ve been a bong I knocked over. This time tho I wasn’t here even. I just came home to my rug being hella wet. Also have pets but it’s very very wet and just smells like water. Any advice will be helpful? I don’t think it’s a water leak as the floor under is dry, and i feel like it would be wet all the time if it was a leak. Not just two random times, weeks apart from each other? No? Ugh so stressed. My mom’s mad lol idk what to do. submitted by /u/Kooky_Branch7124 [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/1I1WOrJ This small section of gutter on the house I just purchased is seemingly sloping AWAY from the downspout... When it rains hard water starts to flow over the top of the gutter. Can I fix this by getting on a ladder and removing 2/3 of the visible gutter nails, raising the right side higher, and nailing it back in place so that it flows into the downspout? Or should I call a pro? I've never messed with gutters before and just figured I'd check here. submitted by /u/vinnybuffalo [link] [comments]

We are about to hit the move-fast part of the remodel and i just want to make sure we are going in the correct order. Would you verify this or share considerations i may have missed? 1) update wiring and plumbing (one day, experts helping) 2) update blocking and install the shower tile board and niches (one day) 3) install drywall (three days) (concurrently build custom shelves and such) 4) lime wash and install shower pan 5) install membrane in shower and floor water proofing 6) floor tile one day (continuous on shower pan) 7) wall tile 8) grout all of it 9) install tub, sink, toilet, light fixtures 10) finishing work (shelves, trim, etc.) 11) take a fancy bath! submitted by /u/No-Rise6647 [link] [comments]

I’m in the process of refurbishing a garden room and have recently replaced some exterior walls with OSB. To improve the appearance, I’ve ordered tongue-and-groove wood cladding. My tradesperson has advised that it’s fine to fix the cladding directly onto the OSB without using a breathable membrane or battens. I’m concerned he might be cutting corners. Is this considered good practice, or should I insist on using a membrane and battens? submitted by /u/devensky00 [link] [comments]

Hello everyone, I’m wondering if adding a whole house filter and water softener is a DIY endeavor. submitted by /u/Present-Drama-5287 [link] [comments]

Hello! We live in a historic home that was heavily renovated beautifully two owners ago. The kitchen is pretty small and they did the best they could to squeeze everything in. We have a fairly narrow 68"x32.75"x32" (HWD) side-by-side fridge that is well beyond its last legs. The cabinets might have been built expressly for it because we are having a tough time finding a fridge that will fit and the fridge my wife has had her heart set on is both too wide and too tall but only by less than an inch either way. The actual cavity in the cabinets is 69 7/8" tall and 35 9/16" wide, the fridge she'd like is 70" tall and 35 3/4" wide. As best I can tell, these are just painted MDF cabinets, so it's not an expensive wood, custom cabinet or anything. Would we be better off trying to widen the cavity and inch either way or would that be more of a pain that it's worth and better to rebuild the cabinets entirely? imgur: https://imgur.com/a/kQYKn2b submitted by /u/tgsongs [link] [comments]

Basically what the title says. I've read that to make sure the paint doesn't absorb into the wall, you need an oil or shellac based primer. I have BIN on hand. Then you use join compound and go from there. I know shellac can take a long time to cure, but that can be recoated in 45 minutes with paint, can you top it with joint compound after 45 minutes or do you have to wait longer? submitted by /u/ResidentAlienator [link] [comments]

Hey all - my wife and I just bought a 1936 house that had the attic converted to 3 extra bedrooms. When we bought it, it had old nasty carpet that we just removed. The plywood subfloor under the carpet is a little bouncy and has give in some spots. We haven’t had the chance yet to pull up the other subfloor to see how thick the existing plywood subfloor is. We had a contractor come by to take a look at a few projects we were considering hiring for, and when it came to replacing the upstairs flooring (which we were hoping to DIY), he suggested we lay 3/4” plywood over the existing subfloor to strengthen it and then do flooring over that. Does that make sense? Seem reasonable? submitted by /u/Technical-Top4187 [link] [comments]

I found an issue with my bathtub faucet in a newly built home. There’s about a 2mm gap between the faucet and the wall which is covered by silicone, and the faucet actually shifts slightly whenever I pull the shower diverter. I contacted the builder, but their response was that this is “normal” and that I just need to apply silicone around the faucet. My concerns: The faucet (and maybe the pipe) move when I use the diverter. Silicone feels like a cosmetic patch, not a structural fix. I’m worried this will lead to leaks or damage inside the wall over time. Shouldn’t the faucet be secured with a bracket/set screw or properly stabilized instead of just sealed with silicone? Would love to hear from others who’ve dealt with this before — is the builder’s approach acceptable or am I right to push back? Video: https://imgur.com/a/9vBLCE4 submitted by /u/mwahba91 [link] [comments]

I recently noticed some asymmetrical out pouching and bubbling of the paint near my vent on the ceiling of my bathroom. Is this water damage potentially from my upstairs neighbor or something else? submitted by /u/Additional_Grab4340 [link] [comments]

Location: Northern CA, Placer County I'm looking to replace my Challenger 90s-era panel after I had some melting breaker issues and burn scar on the bus. The county has given the go-ahead for a like-for-like panel replacement. PG&E has asked to relocate the water main to the house. Water entering the house is about 3ft away from the edge of the panel. This is a tract house built in 1996, there are hundreds of houses with this same configuration. PG&E says they will waive the requirement to move the water main if they get a written approval from the county for an emergency replacement. The county says they have approved the replacement as part of the permit, but do not get in between PG&E and the homeowner and do not provide any written letter. My electrician has several calls into PG&E. Their project coordinator wants us to relocate panel or water main. We have a call into the supervisor but no response yet. Either moving the electrical panel or water main are cost prohibitive. Any suggestions to get this through? What is the likelihood of an exemption? submitted by /u/OldDude2551 [link] [comments]

Its an attached garage addition. From the bottom of the wall to the top of the wall is 99". Both bottom and top plates are doubled up. It's 8' from the top of the foundation to the bottom of the top plate. Options I can think of: Install vertical with a 3" strip across the top. Install two horizontal rows with a 3" strip across the top. Install vertical but don't overlap the bottom 2x of the bottom plate and top 2x of the top plate. submitted by /u/antonytrupe [link] [comments]

Hello everyone, Looking for some advice on how to handle this situation. My new (to me) house has a converted car port with a deck above. At the moment the deck is... partially covered? It's got a dilapidated sunroom that I'll probably get rid of soon and a bit of an aluminum awning. I'm currently working in the garage trying to make it a nice, comfortable place to hang around, tinker etc... I've done every garage I've ever owned but this is my first one that wasn't properly covered with a traditional roof. When I look at the joists now, I can see that water is already making it through the duradeck so that'll likely need to be replaced. I'd like to heat my garage but it seems like a bad idea if I can't insulate it and insulating it seems like a bad idea. Even if I patch the duradeck, water will likely get in eventually unless I cover the deck above entirely... I guess I'm looking for advice, or maybe options I haven't thought of. Thanks edit: link to some photos https://imgur.com/a/FwZ1Ps6 submitted by /u/UnBuggsyBaggins [link] [comments]

I've removed the 33 year-old ceiling drywall in a basement room, to replace it. There was a mix of nails and 2" (excessively-long) screws used to hold the ceiling in place. They were very rusted, and a lot of the screw heads broke off, or the heads stripped completely, leaving the threads stuck in the joists. Probably around a dozen and a half are stuck in the joists around the room, with 1/2" sticking out. Here are some photos: https://imgur.com/a/e4XBac1 Ideally, I'd like to get them removed. But I don't know if there's a way to do it without leaving damage to the joists. What is the best way to deal with them? submitted by /u/Heliummy [link] [comments]

Next week I'm closing on a house that has a brand new deck (built 2024 iirc) and, while I think it seems to be very well built, I am not completely happy with its layout and design. All the lumber is in great condition and I wanted to know if anyone on this sub has any experiences or stories they'd like to share when it comes to using the existing deck materials to redesign and build a different one. Is this a dumb prospect or do people sometimes do this? Thanks in advance submitted by /u/iamsandpaper [link] [comments]

every roofer tells me something different. i’m in Boston suburbs if that matters submitted by /u/Terrible_Mix_1427 [link] [comments]

Not very long ago, in the earliest months of the year, my living room floor was in very bad shape. From the years of kids running around, pets shedding hair everywhere, and daily activities, the floors had completely worn out. I wanted something that felt soft to walk on but was also considering strength, one enough to handle everyday use. With that in mind, I started looking at different options, especially those that people recommend for busy homes like mine. I took notes and after trying several samples, I decided on a stain-resistant type from a trusted vendor. It had the right balance, being plush and comfortable, but still very easy to clean. Once it was installed, the whole space changed. Movie nights became warmer, quieter, and much cozier. The cold sound of the hardwood floor was gone. It had a neutral color and that worked very well for me, because it hid dirt and dust without much effort. Cleaning it was surprisingly also simple, and vacuuming felt much easier compared to my old and worn-out rug. My family really enjoys the new floor, especially walking on it barefoot in the mornings. For anyone thinking about improving their floors, you can buy from your local shops or trusted vendors. They still give quality for the price. Alibaba, ikea and the rest have good options too, that can match your needs, but I got mine from a local vendor, and I didn’t have to go through so much stress. Have you changed your floors this past year? Share your experience in the comments, I would like to know. submitted by /u/jjhickson19 [link] [comments]

I just picked up some old bowling alley chairs and they were originally bolted down at the alley. I want to use them in my living room but I’d rather not drill into my floor. What can I do to keep them from tipping when people sit down? (Besides having 2 people sit at the same time!) https://imgur.com/a/sR5Jcim submitted by /u/happyperson0101 [link] [comments]