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Our chest freezer in the basement got unplugged. It was about 1.5 weeks until I finally figured out the stench crawling in the house was coming from the freezer down in the basement. It's bad luck. It happens. I am close to just saying "Thank you for l your years of service, RIP" and tossing it. But it's a16 cu ft chest and weighs 200 lbs at least. It would just absolutely suck getting it up the stairs and out to the curb. I've scrubbed, bleached, vinegared, sprayed some ozium multiple times. After several rounds, I Even plugged it in with a bunch of baking soda, charcoal, coffee grinds. It's definitely BETTER in that the stink isimited to the inside, and doesn't permeate the rest of the basement. But obviously still unusable in it's current stink state. Any thoughts on other steps I can take, or have I been defeated by a rotting 20 lb turkey? submitted by /u/Mechaheph [link] [comments]

I've had an outlet that hasn't worked since I bought the house. I had the day off today so I decided I was going to tackle it so I can finally build the sofa table of my wife's dreams. I had to buy a circuit breaker finder tool because of course none of the circuits are labeled in my panel. So I went to HD and bought a milwaukee which was 20 bucks less than the Klein). Connected the transmitter and went to my circuit box to find it. PROTIP: If you're having issues trying to locate the circuit breaker, make sure you scan all the circut breakers a few times and you'll find it. I found the breaker, so I turned it off. Confirmed power was off with a non contact tester. I unscrewed everything and got the outlet out of the box. Went and turned the circuit breaker back on so I could test the wires. Hot was indeed hot, but neutral wasn't giving me any sort of reading, so off I went to HD again because I THOUGHT the outlet was bad. As I understand it, hot feeds the electricity and after it goes through the outlet, the electricity then gets passed on through the neutral wires. I also noticed there was 2 neutral wires going into it, so I figured I needed to buy some excess wire and some lever nuts to make it right so there was 1 wire getting screwed in and not 2. I bought the outlet, the excess wire, lever nuts and I thought I was on my way to finally replacing everything. As I started to replace it, I noticed the neutral wasn't actually 2 wires, but 1 wire where it feeds into the screw like a weird U shape. I didn't actually need the lever nuts or the extra wire. So I screwed everything back together and was ready to test it out and I was stoked because I figured that I was on my way to making my wife's day. Turned the circuit breaker on and got the tester and sure enough, same thing. NO POWER to the outlets. I had to scratch my head a little bit. Reconnected the wires again, still did nothing. Put the old one back on, nothing. I was really frustrated at this point, but then I had a thought. I remembered there was a blue wire in the box, and I didn't know what that was for so after some googling, it was for switches. Then I remembered we had a switch that didn't really do anything so I flipped it on and sure enough, the outlet was working again so I never needed to actually buy half the stuff I bought today. I'm sure it'll use it at some point during my home ownership, just sucks that I had to take 2 trips and spent 50-100 bucks if I knew just to check the switch instead. TLDR: if you're troubleshooting an outlet issue and you notice a blue wire somewhere in the box, check to make sure that a switch isn't preventing it from working as intended. submitted by /u/BS1098 [link] [comments]

Hi all! I have searched google/Reddit endlessly and cannot get any clarity to my house mystery. My husband and I purchased our house 4 years ago, and we actually almost did not even look at the house because of the front appearance. However we fell in love with the house & have accepted the front for what it is. But what the hell is this siding?! https://imgur.com/a/y6Nq5ma https://imgur.com/a/oeQX72q We don’t know when it was done but I’m assuming maybe the 70-80s? House was build in the 60s. (We live in New England) We had a roof/siding company come out and they were a bit baffled too, salesman had never seen it before. It’s almost like a stamped concrete? It’s hard and thick as hell, looks like it was laid on top of a metal wire mesh. The “stones” are definitely not real stone, and it is clearly patterned throughout. The home improvement company said they don’t know how to remove it.. and made it sounds pretty labor intensive & $$ to do. At this point we are considering painting the “stone” a gray to get some of the brown out .. get new white gutters to lighten up the appearance. Either way I’d love to know what the hell it is & if it even is removable? How long does it last? Can you paint it? Any opinion is so appreciated! submitted by /u/Front_Wing1583 [link] [comments]

We are wanting to do shiplap in the laundry room and just curious where everyone goes to get the boards. A specialty website like Shiplap Direct or WoodPlank, or just from Home Depot or Lowes? Also as a side question if installing vertically would it be a good idea to use plywood behind it instead of drywall to give something to nail into? submitted by /u/409Narwhal [link] [comments]

Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/uIu93as submitted by /u/BobUfer [link] [comments]

Here's a link to four pictures of what I've got: https://imgur.com/a/xyMqIFX The guy before me extended the flange with the yellow extender, but didn't extend it far enough for some reason. I'm wondering what I need to do to extend it further. I've bought the white extender from ACE, but I'm not sure that it'll do the job on top of what's currently there. What do I need to do the job right? submitted by /u/FlyingCarsArePlanes [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/28fsWrE Hey everyone, I’m resorting to Reddit here as I’m trying to get an answer quickly as to whether I should have this completed. I have a contractor redoing bathrooms, at a house I inherited (built in 1963) but do not live in yet. I have enjoyed working with him and trust him, thus I asked if he could take a look around the property and see if he identifies anything that stands out as needing fixed, since I won’t be buying this house in the typical fashion with a pre-inspection. There were a few things that came up, but he is in particular stressing urgent repair of post to beam and post to base connections in the basement (6-8 total). He states the job would be to: “temporarily support the beams where the posts are, cut the posts free from the beams, drill holes into the existing concrete, install a post base connector. Then cut the existing post down so it fits back in between the new post base connector and the bottom of the beam. Then install the post to beam connection.” It’s the same proposal on the covered back porch with 4 beams which do show rotting near the base, although impossible to say how far up it goes in the wood. He’s offering to do this all for $2500, but only while still on site finishing the bathrooms and they need an answer within a few days if I want to move forward. My question: is this really necessary? He says my floor is guaranteed to cave in during a reasonable seismic event — however my brief research shows this may not really protect the house much. I’d be SO appreciative of any advice. Thank you. submitted by /u/SeattleRN [link] [comments]

I’m trying to replace this with an LED fixture. I can’t figure out how to get the can out of the ceiling. There isn’t a clip I can undo. Any suggestions? Edit: Images here: https://imgur.com/a/0ajevsq I purchased the Feit retrofit kit from Costco (https://www.costco.com/feit-electric-led-5%22--6%22-retrofit%2C-6-pack.product.100416653.html) but I don't think this will work. submitted by /u/iheartpgh [link] [comments]

Our home is built into a hill. As in the first floor with the garage and downstairs is technically underground and our top floor is at ground level. Whenever our neighbor plays music, the bass is so loud in our living room and dining room. Not below or on the otherwise of the house. It doesn't seem loud outside. So I am wondering what we could do to mitigate the sound transfer? There is no fence between our houses just behind them. I don't know if a fence would stop the bass. I don't even know who to call for a consultation. Any help would be appreciated! submitted by /u/VHUSPODCAST [link] [comments]

I am visiting a close friend whose kitchen cabinets keep falling out of the hardware. They have had their contractor back to fix it 3 times and now have asked me to assist. I am normally really good at this kind of thing but somehow cannot figure this out! Please help me find the model of this hardware or instructions to insert the cabinet portion into the shelving hardware! I am feeling very very stupid :/ Link to photo in comments submitted by /u/fix-me-up [link] [comments]

Had a couple of window contractors come by. Most just quote for replacement windows. About $1k for a window. One company quoted for a new frame and nail fin installation method. These came out to be about $2k per window. Anderson 100 windows We have a decent amount of dry rot around the exterior of the home (including around the windows) that we're getting fixed after we get these two windows installed that leak. We plan to be in the house for a long time so considering the exterior of the house has dry rot it was appealing to me to get the whole window, including the frame ripped out to identify if there was any dry rot "inside" so to speak and then get a new frame and window that should last 30+ years. Is a new frame installation with a nail fin worth it? Or just get replacement windows? submitted by /u/Rare_Protection [link] [comments]

I’ve got some hardwood flooring that is 3/4” thick. The instructions explain how to glue if that’s what you plan on doing and also how to nail if that’s what you plan on doing, which nailing seems more appropriate for this type of plank. My question though is that it says to nail every piece down. With flooring though you’re supposed to leave a gap under the baseboard for expansion. Wouldn’t nailing each piece down prevent anything from expanding at all anyhow? submitted by /u/RedditPanhandler [link] [comments]

We recently purchased a beautiful home, but are not in love with the fireplace painted white. https://imgur.com/a/KtuLdFq I would love to see what the natural stone underneath looks like. Is this possible? Would it make more sense just to leave it or rip it all out and replace it with new stone? I’m not really sure what I’m getting myself into, just starting to research things. I appreciate everyone’s comments in advance! Thank you so much! submitted by /u/Nikithechild [link] [comments]

I’m having a new home built and it comes with a 10’ x 10’ patio. We want to extend it by 550 sq ft. Many companies have offer quotes and are ready to pour today. One company advised us that we should wait 1-2 years before adding concrete because the home is new and needs to settle first. They stated anyone offering to do it immediately just wants to make money at the cost of pouring to soon and soil hasn’t settled . Which will cause it to crack any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks submitted by /u/Rough_Theory_4022 [link] [comments]

Hi all, I finally found a contractor to re-stucco my house. Upon reading the contact, he apparently wants $2,500 as a retainer/deposit amount for a $10,000 project. From my understanding, in CA, it's supposed to be $1,000 or 10% whichever is less. Does this rule apply to stucco contractors too? Is this a red flag? Should I bring it up to him? I'm not ready to re-stucco until my front door and garage doors are replaced (which is stated in contract). I'm not sure if that makes a difference. submitted by /u/st3althmod3 [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/vS2kfRd submitted by /u/welton_rs [link] [comments]

We have a weird concrete patio with patio door sitting on top of it. How should we go about adding larger patio? We don't want to expand this concrete. I don't think we can safely remove it without damaging patio door. If we build patio on top we will have a step up coming out of the house. Please throw some ideas at us! https://imgur.com/a/joJbkYl submitted by /u/unfortunatecarp [link] [comments]

My family is fixing a leaky faucet and needs to find a part to replace. However, I was unable to find it on Home Depot. The part that is chipped, the faucet, and the cartridge that holds the parts are in this link https://imgur.com/a/dLj0rDR . submitted by /u/iamFuzzPanda [link] [comments]

My house was built 2006 and windows have never been replaced. In the winter we notice drafts and lots of condensation that drips onto the window jambs and caused mold in the corners etc. Can’t afford to replace all the windows, the government grants possible (Ontario)are t that great to help reduce the costs. So I’m wondering- could it help extend the life of our windows if I remove the trim and jambs, spray foam around the windows to better seal and then put in new trim and jambs? This is more financially friendly for us because I go along and complete it as I can afford it. If we don’t do that I’m talking it’s 3+ years until we can afford changing the windows (quotes are 25k+ and not even for all the windows in the house) Any other suggestions? submitted by /u/Jinjoo-sem [link] [comments]

Bought a new build house (UK) in October 2024. Soon noticed that the unused wood burner was filling with white vermiculite/perlite. This has continued for months and we get a pile of it collecting at the bottom of the flue on the baffle plate. Flagged this to the developer as we're in a 2 year snag repair period. So far they've tried: 1) Put a camera up the chimney flue, apparently could not find any sign of leak or hole. I did not see the images. 2) Tried to install a flue liner (apparently ours didn't need one initially as it's 'clay pipe'). This failed as they couldn't get passed the lead. 3) Pointed around the top of the chimney where they said it wasn't pointed correctly and that it should be resolved. Failed. They've told us throughout that the woodburner is safe to use. Vermiculite seems to come down into the woodburner moreso in windy weather and we also learnt that the bricklayers who built our house were fired during construction of our property and that this issue of vermiculite was known to the developer before we moved in. Apparently they used a chimney camera to look for damage but apparently couldn't find anything. Realistically, where do we go from here? Is the fix likely to be a whole chimney rebuild? Which I expect the developer will try to avoid at all costs. Is it even worth us getting this fixed or should we just accept it's defective? Any opinions or advice is greatly appreciated! submitted by /u/TailorSpy [link] [comments]

I ordered custom wood windows from a local company and every step of the way I told them I wanted double hung windows. They installed single hung windows. The contract is not specific enough on this issue. It's a huge disappointment because the window replacement was planned specifically because I wanted double hung. Based on pricing, do you think I paid for double or single hung? The two windows at issue were 28" wide by 68" tall. We were quoted $900 each for clear insulating glass and $1,070 for high insulating glass (not including finish, stain grade wood inside but not outside). Total for three windows with finish and install was almost $7k. (For three windows - third window was a small (20"x28") casement window quoted at $750 with high insulating glass.) Install was $2,500 for three windows. submitted by /u/hardlyawesome [link] [comments]

Hey all, in MN here, currently kilzing my basement walls before I insulate. This is one of the final steps in a long basement mold journey with demolition, drain tile and sump install, regrading, gutter work. I’m hoping the previously listed things take care of 98% of moisture issues and the Kilz is just an insurance policy/last line of defense. The question is- my original water issue was a slow leak over many years from hydrostatic pressure and had the studs getting wet and the mold followed its way down to the carpet. I have new framing put in and while he definitely did a better job than the original by framing the studs 1/2” off the cement and not touching, I still worry about future moisture. (yes I made the mistake of not Kilzing the blocks before framing got put up) but as I started it lead me to thinking - maybe it’s smart to paint the back of the studs and the sill plates with Kilz as long as I’m already doing the concrete as an extra line of defense? Waste of time? Any reason there’d be downside to doing so? submitted by /u/mattyz_87 [link] [comments]

Its not very deep but is noticeable. Any ideas on how to fix/get rid of it? If you click on my profile you can see a pic of it. Thanks submitted by /u/Worthy-Green-6457 [link] [comments]

Long story, but bed is next to a water heater (within a closet, not literally next to my bed). Have two different First Alert alarms. Was told First Alerts are awful AND only begin detecting at 30ppm. Read that prolonged exposure to 10ppm could cause issues. Looking for an alarm that measures at 10ppm or less. Does anyone have any recommendations? submitted by /u/Weird_Tax_5601 [link] [comments]

I’m moving into a new space and the walls are white with one turquoise accent wall. I washed the walls thoroughly and let them dry. I primed the turquoise wall but it didn’t seem to do much. What’s the best way to tone down the turquoise (without breaking the bank)? Also, do I need to prime the white walls? (I’ll be painting them as well/ giving them a fresh coat of white paint). Thank you! submitted by /u/Whole_Cycle2508 [link] [comments]