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So here’s the situation — I live in a walk-up apartment (no elevator) and groceries have become a weekly nightmare.I don’t drive right up to the door either, so it’s like 15 stairs to even get to my building, then another 3 floors up.I’ve tried reusable bags, a foldable dolly, even just doing more trips — but I always end up sore or smashing bread under cans.I feel like I’m missing some clever life hack or tool that people use in this situation.Not looking to spend a ton, but I’d be happy to pay for something if it’ll just make this suck less.Anyone got a solution for this? submitted by /u/Jackieboi24 [link] [comments]

Can we put in a new fence on a shared property line but move it a few inches over to our property line to avoid the Neighbor destroying it by hanging heavy objects on it? This would then leave their own fence where the existing one is? submitted by /u/Designer_Loss_2789 [link] [comments]

Hi, I recently bought a new home and the support pillars seem a bit bowing to me. Should I be worried? https://imgur.com/a/8PGR9gn submitted by /u/DarthWal [link] [comments]

https://imgur.com/a/ommXLcj submitted by /u/Vergilkilla [link] [comments]

Hi everyone, I recently had my exterior railing replaced by a contractor. During the replacement, the contractor called and told me that a city inspector showed up and said a permit was required. I told the contractor to go ahead and get the permit. The next day, the contractor told me the permit had been pulled, but it would be an additional $700 on top of the original quote. I was surprised by the cost, so I went to my city hall to check. They confirmed that a permit was pulled for my property and that the actual permit fee was only $100. So my question is: Can a contractor legally or reasonably charge me $700 for something that cost them $100 to obtain? Is this standard practice (to mark up permit-related costs), or is this something I should push back on? submitted by /u/Practical-Spread-195 [link] [comments]

Will something like this in front of a sliding glass door make the room cooler? See image Edit: This is in a rental apartment so I cannot make any permanent modifications. submitted by /u/DunkinDonutsUSA [link] [comments]

In Phoenix, new construction. Need to remove builder provided carpet and then lay tiles. About 1850 Sq Ft. Here is what I got(does not include tile cost) Description Tile Installation (1,852 sqft) Scrape floor, seal any cracks on the concrete, install 6x36 tile, we would provide thinset, grout, and caulking. $7,200.00 Carpet removal (1,852 sqft) We would remove all carpet and tack strips, and dispose of everything. 40-50 Tiles Removed $1,150.00 Remove tiles to keep pattern going with full tiles. $550.00 Total price: $8.900.00 submitted by /u/Vegan_Humanoid [link] [comments]

I have old house with two prong outlets in most rooms and three prong in an addition on the house. When I went to change one of the two prong outlets there was no grounding wire. I don’t want to pay an electrician to add grounding wire to the old outlets. Would it be a dumb move to just install GFCI outlets on them all? submitted by /u/Technical_Cup6283 [link] [comments]

[For 1&2, I was thinking about getting a container of DAP pre-mixed stucco repair. For 3. I was going to use Quikrete stucco repair sealant. Would this be fine?](https://imgur.com/a/wN6eYkN) submitted by /u/xFocused70 [link] [comments]

My microwave died and as I was removing it to replace the old one, I noticed the base of the cabinet of which the microwave is screwed into is a lil bit janky. The particle wood is only attached to the side walls via nails that you can see are sliding. My first thought was to screw in or nail in to firmly reconnect it but there is also a fair amount of holes drilled like multiple microwaves were replaced or they didn't measure first. Just want to make sure I do this right, but also without having to completely replace the cabinet. Can I replace just the bottom particle wood? Are nails the right way to go? Is it ok that the bottom piece is not in anyway connected to the front face? https://imgur.com/a/yK9Nq1l submitted by /u/DarkArlocke [link] [comments]

I’m in middle Tennessee and looking for advice to cool down my 2 car garage. I use it for a gym in the morning and it stays around 77 degrees. I got a 13k portable a/c unit that I use about 6ft from the window. It seems like it takes a bit for the portable a/c unit to be felt. Where I workout is about 6-8ft from it. -Should I use a dehumidifier before I turn on the a/c? -Would running another fan cool down the garage faster while using the a/c? The thermostat I use mainly says 77 degrees. Even when running the a/c about an hour or more. Another other tips? Thanks Pictures https://imgur.com/a/c2JGiuA submitted by /u/don51181 [link] [comments]

I am looking for some advice as I’m navigating a huge kitchen remodel and yard remodel. Last week, I met with my contractor and received a bid for a kitchen project, adding turf to my yard, adding more cement to the yard, and a mini split unit for the home gym in my garage. She is asking for 100% up front payment as she’s going out of town for a month. A family member used the same contractor but I am feeling really uncomfortable about the whole situation and came here to seek advice :). Is this common? Should I be concerned? submitted by /u/Life-Conference8604 [link] [comments]

Hey folks, I’m looking to brighten up this stairwell by adding a second light fixture (either flush mount or recessed) further up the ceiling under another staircase. Right now, I have one existing light controlled by a switch at the bottom of the stairs (photo attached). I'd like the new light to turn on/off with the same switch for better visibility. I’m fairly handy—I’ve done recessed lighting and some fishing before in other rooms—but since this is a stairwell, I want to get advice before making holes or committing. Main questions: Is it reasonably easy to fish a wire from the existing light to the new location? Any tips or smarter ways to approach this? Would you recommend flush mount or recessed in this scenario? Thanks in advance for your help! Here is the picture to stairwell: https://imgur.com/a/1KpAGgb submitted by /u/dll2k2dll [link] [comments]

**move hookups We're hoping to redo our tiny laundry area and add a counter above (new) machines. How hard is it to move the washer/dryer hookup down about 1 foot or so? It can stay exactly where it is in regard to distance from the side walls etc. I've done some minor plumbing like install p-traps in new sinks and stuff but that's about it (although I'm always eager to learn) submitted by /u/AncientManagement885 [link] [comments]

I’m seeking advice on what sealant/caulk is best for my project. I have an old outdoor structure in my backyard that leaks rain water. The structure’s roof is composed of aluminum joists and transparent plastic/fiberglass panels between those joists. My goal is to replace the old deteriorating sealant along the seams. I was prepared to use 100% silicone, but learning about the wide range of products available has made me unsure about what product is best. A quick internet search has me considering either silicone, polyurethane, or butyl rubber caulk. Can anyone with experience tell me what they would use? Or what SHOULD be used? Thanks! Some details: The roof is almost flat and is located in an area with extreme temperatures (cold and hot). Thanks! submitted by /u/Willsee [link] [comments]

I've been questioning whether my contractor really knows what he's doing with my bathroom renovation There's been some issues with installing the drain and tiles, and I really don't know if he installed them correctly. I know the tiles weren't installed according to spec because he didn't put thinset in between the subfloor and backer board, which is against TCNA guidelines. But I've already posted about that in the past, so I don't really want to discuss it here again. He most recently installed the beadboard wainscoting. The first time he installed it, he installed the panels horizontally.... even though I told him specifically to install it vertically. So he had to redo that. Now the panels are installed vertically, but idk if he did it right. Here's a video of the wainscoting installation: https://imgur.com/xxI5YPi When I watched youtube videos online, it seems like the base board is supposed to be installed first, and then the beadboard wainscoting gets installed on top of it, but as you can see in this installation, he only installed the beadboard wainscoting, and he said he'll install the bottom trim. I guess the trim is supposed to go over the wainscoting and not under it? Other aesthetic issues include screw heads sticking out and misalignment with the floor tiles. Idk how he's going to be able to hide that. submitted by /u/Ok-Mark-1239 [link] [comments]

Where or how can I drain this downspount? I have a downspout that on 3 sides has a hard barrier and the 4th is the stairs to the sidewalk. Everything is very flat. The only idea I've had is to run a 2 inch pipe to the bottom of the stairs but I don't want it to wash out the retaining wall or drain onto the sidewalk, which is against city code. Imgur: The magic of the Internet submitted by /u/arborealguy [link] [comments]

I just bought a trailer that is in need of a remodel. I’m going to be tearing out some sections of wall to replace with new drywall, adding subfloor under half the trailer, installing new insulation under the trailer, completely reflooring the trailer, putting in new cabinets as well as replacing all the trim in the window frames, floors, ceiling, and doors. Where should I start, and what order should I work this in? I was believing ideally start with the walls, then do the floor and insulation next, cabinets, and then trim last. But I’m up for suggestions! Never done this before submitted by /u/Rice_Clinton [link] [comments]

Hi, I’m replacing a door, and the new door jamb doesn’t fit between the framing and the tile. Is there an easy way to cut the porcelain tile already in place to make the hole bigger? Or would you just put the casing on top of the tile and cut the door and the bottom of the casing? submitted by /u/Equivalent_Air8717 [link] [comments]

In the summer my house heats up real fast. For instance, today it’s 74 out and the inside temp of the house is 81-82. In the winter we fought to keep the temp at 78(father was battling dementia) submitted by /u/Youshallovercome [link] [comments]

This is a new build. 10ft x 8ft Milgard slider. When the door is open it clearly leans back toward the center divider. When fully open the top is 15mm 0"6/8 wider at the top. https://imgur.com/a/kZeNEho Milgard standards say tolerance of error is 6-10mm This is 15mm. Should I insist its installed correctly even if it requires a lot of work. My worry is over time the roller will wear unevenly and cause issues while no longer under warranty. submitted by /u/RemoteProgrammer3694 [link] [comments]

My home has a sump pit and sump pump in the basement. In the sump pit there are two black corrugated pipes and will carry water into the pit to be pumped out From these black corrugated pipes all manor of insects will crawl and climb out of the pit past the cover. Cave crickets mostly, but also centipedes, spiders, and others. Initially I thought I’d try and put some mesh over the black corrugated pipes but they aren’t full externally accessible. I thought I’d pose the question to the community. I can post a video if it clarifies the setup and it’s not clear from the descriptor submitted by /u/Chaseyoungqbz [link] [comments]

The house was built in 1928. The room pictured is a kitchen extension built some time after that. I bought the house four years ago, and the roof has not changed at all since then. However it is very crooked and it worries me. Should I be worried? What can be done about it? Thanks for any advice. https://imgur.com/a/AhPVaYD submitted by /u/dahayter [link] [comments]

This may be a long shot, but I can't for the life of me find an LED Replacement Kit for my MinkaAire fan, due to its unusual dimensions (and frankly, my not knowing enough about the connectors to be sure whatever I buy will be compatible). The disc and a hasty sketch of its dimensions are pictured here: https://imgur.com/a/lVWITvA The only result for the model number (Kun Li Electronics AC6517) is a listing on ProductIQ which great, it confirms that the light I own exists. Everything on Amazon is 4" in diameter or more, but I need 2.5" with 2" of distance between each of the three mounting points. I found some products on Gekpower which were far smaller than my disc, which only got my hopes up until I scrolled through everything they had. This is my first time doing this, am I just barking up the wrong tree trying to do this myself? At this point I'm half inclined to just put the glass casing back over the fan and use lamps in my bedroom, but I love being able to turn the lights off from bed with the remote that came with the fan. Is there some resource I'm overlooking (beyond my ticket with the fan's manufacturer)? submitted by /u/PaulFThumpkins [link] [comments]

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/ejdLI1g Pretty much title. First picture is top corner of shower - where two tiles meet. Second picture is a wall AC unit and its frame. Tried Googling what to do but want to make sure I'm on the right path before doing it. submitted by /u/Quiet-Painting3 [link] [comments]