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Hi I have allergies...im sure an air purifier will help but which one ... One for the bedroom or one for whole house...do they make a considerable difference? submitted by /u/happytobeconnected [link] [comments]

House was built in '98, we moved in just over a year ago. Had the chimney cleaned and the fireplace inspected by a Dallas firefighter who does that, lit one fire in it last winter, with seasoned oak, and it burned smoke-free for a long time, though the house did smell like a campfire for several days afterward. But it really didn't provide much heat, so I asked a fireplace business to come see if we could get a liner or insert or glass doors or something. They asked me to shoot them some photos, which I did, and then they said Texas does not permit alterations on this kind of masonry fireplace. What gives? And what other options do I have for heat when the power goes out in a wicked winter storm? We're in a subdivision not plumbed for gas. Should we just pony up for a Generac? submitted by /u/MamaHatesShopping [link] [comments]

we’ve gotten quotes for a full home rewire (1870s home, 3 stories + basement, 2500 sqft, lath and plaster walls). the current electrical work is not up to code, is knob and tube, and has some incorrect connections. a full home rewire is definitely needed. the quotes we received are a bit more than we were expecting, and my husband is trying to convince me he can DIY it all, or at the very least, DIY everything except the panel replacement. he works full time and we are expecting a baby 2 months after we move into the house. he is handy and an engineer but has no experience with hands on electrical work. he has a friend who is an electrician who could help him a day or two per week, but the friend also works full time (out of town). please give me advice or feedback on this. i would rather pay $30k to not worry about it than spend probably $15k and have him attempt to do it all, and worry about the safety, correctness, and completeness, on top of the inconveniences of probably not having power some days. i’m all for saving money but at what (non-financial) cost!?? has anyone done a full home rewire of this size? how long did it take? was it the biggest PITA ever? submitted by /u/Maximum_Sherbert7191 [link] [comments]

Hello Team, My partner and I are looking into buying (and having installed) a new front door. We live near Toronto, Ontario, Canada. So we do get the four seasons, it's hot in the summer, cold in the winter, wet in the spring and fall. I've talked to a couple businesses who specialize in doing windows and doors and they are pushing us to buy a fibreglass door. This is the way I am leaning as well... They say that if we get a wooden one built, they won't install it, as it will constantly be growing and shrinking, causing drafts or jamming the door. They say we'll be calling them back to adjust things all the time. My partner is in love with the idea of a wooden front door, coupled with a wooden storm door, to make up for some of the difference in insulation and "tightness" between a fibreglass and old school wood door. I've found a mill and craftsmen who would happily make a front door, storm door and door frame all out of wood and have contractors they recommend to install them. However, all in the wooden door option would probably be 10-11k Canadian, while the fibreglass one would be about 6k. What are the opinions of the greater internet?... "She" hates that they make dozens or hundreds (who knows) of doors exactly like the one we would choose, every day. Getting a wooden one, custom made, with custom stained glass, would be unique and beautiful and no one in the world would have the exact same one. I somewhat agree, but take more satisfaction than she does, in something that closes well, fits nicely and keeps me warm. :) I should also mention that we have three youngish kids, are fairly busy and don't have a tonne of cash (or time) sitting around year after year to be replacing things, paying contractors or painters to come in and fix up things, or the time do it ourselves. She's somewhat frustrated because we keep doing the investments in the house that I suggest. We've replaced the rotten deck, re-pointed the bricks, removed the chimney, fixed the brick porch post, repaired the falling down shed... now I'm pushing for a factory made front door, instead of a solid wood one... or doing something else like a hot tub, or a gas stove insert. Obviously, I feel like I'm making reasonably, responsible decisions... but am I an asshole? Should I choose the "fun" "beautiful" less practical option? What do you think? THANKS FOR READING!!! \-Colin submitted by /u/ColinBakerst [link] [comments]

Have some chipped paint around tub drain. Looking to touch it up to prevent more peeling and or rust but everything I'm finding need 3 days before use. Can anyone recommend a fast curing product? Thanks submitted by /u/Max_Roc [link] [comments]

I have about 8” of blown in insulation in my attic, and a GC who was looking at a roofing issue the other week said I should really have about 24”. Are there any gotchyas or things to be careful of, or can any idiot just rent a machine and go to town? submitted by /u/GhostNode [link] [comments]

Big storm coming. If I wanted to buy a portable generator (3000-4000W) to power refrigerator and boiler, do I prefer Champion, Firman, Diehard, or Generac dual fuel? submitted by /u/fasta_guy88 [link] [comments]

I believe these cracks in the middle of the span of this double joist (supports a wall above) need addressing. Right now I have a 30 ton bottle jack and 4x4 providing firm support. The joists are “2x8” and about 14 feet long, but one is more like 7.25” and the other like 7.5”. Is sistering the way to go here? Do both sides need to be sistered? If so does the depth have to match perfect (eg 7.5” and 7.25” respectively)? Do I jack up the cracked joists until the crack closes or just sister in current location? This all in the context of, the foundation likely need to be supported and possibly jacked up a little as well to correct some foundation sag, so I’m not sure that trying to go too hard on removing all sag from the cracked joists that might just need to be re-readdressed if the foundation moves in the future. So on that note I am also considering an adjustable floor jack in this location and just doing a very basic scab with either plywood or 2x4 about the cracked area, as a more medium to long term (non permanent) solution until the foundation can be addressed. And yes plan is for a structural engineer at some point but a lot of old semi finished paneling in the basement which is locking up more mold and possibly more CMU cracks needs to be removed for a full assessment. Any other tips tricks or approaches you might add? Thank you. submitted by /u/The-Dick-Doctress [link] [comments]

Hey all. Recently checked on my sump area and noticed this drain is overflowing and just draining into the sump pit itself. Is there something I should be concerned about and what is this drain exactly? Thank you https://imgur.com/a/Bxh2T4j submitted by /u/The_Variable_Phi [link] [comments]

I co-own a house with family members and I have finished a portion of the basement for my in-law suite. The last major item this space needs is kitchen countertops. I selected a solid surface material with a popular and benign subtle design that matches the countertops in the upstairs kitchen. Measurements have been taken but the countertops have not been ordered. The joint decision was made to sell the house, as my family members will be moving out of state for a job opportunity and I want to move to a warmer climate. It all works out for everyone. But here's the question: Should I go ahead with the countertop installation? Or in your opinion will the new owners want to pick out their own countertops? I am able to cancel the countertop order with no penalty. Thanks! submitted by /u/DaisyGracemeow [link] [comments]

House has an old (like 1880s) cellar (basement) that I would like to make better use of. Nice ceiling clearance, dry, nice exposed brick walls. Problem is the floor. It’s concrete and in good shape but has decades of dirt ground into it. My first thought was to pressure wash, but the floor drain doesn’t seem to work, so getting the muddy water out would be tough. Do I suck it up and use a wet/dry vac to get it up or is there a better way? OR, can i put down underlayment and drop in LVP or similar waterproof floor without cleaning it? Thanks in advance! submitted by /u/Nicetryatausername [link] [comments]

hi all, we’re looking to replace carpets (UK) that have been down since what feels like before I was born! We’ve had various carpeting companies round & I think we’ve settled on Cormar Primo Ultra (we’ve 3 kids and a cat so need something really tough!) I feel like the carpet shops have been great at giving advice about the actual carpets but when I try to ask about underlay options we’re getting v short replies with barely any information or options other than the standard one they offer. It feels like quite a minefield - Wilson’s plush walk, Tredair, axefelt, cloud 9 (of lots of different cloud types!) and I’m wondering what is the best to go for? we’re carpeting 4 bedrooms, landing & stairs - would love something really soft for the bedrooms but don’t want to risk too much squashing over time /track marks. can anyone advise? I feel like whatever website I look at is biased as they’re selling them. my parents keep telling me to get the best underlay we can afford but I don’t want to throw money away if there’s negligible differences between the brands. Thanks all submitted by /u/GriffGlowen [link] [comments]

I live in a cookie cutter neighborhood. I have 12 feet between my house and my neighbors. The houses were not built with gutters and I desperately need them. It's always wet between the houses. Never enough to where it's flooded unless a big storm comes through, but it's just never completely dry. There are supposedly swales between the houses but I don't know if they're doing much. Anyway to the point. I want to have gutters installed but I want them connected to underground drainage that goes to the street. If I have this done will the digging of the trench mess up the swales? My second question is should I find a company that can do both the gutters and the drainage or would it be better to find separate companies? submitted by /u/taxidriver1138 [link] [comments]

The drive is sloped to the drain. Gutter downspout is dumping water onto the driveway. Water freezes in winter and creating ice. I would love idea on how to address it for now until I repave my driveway. https://imgur.com/a/BKMiIro submitted by /u/_captain_wiggles_ [link] [comments]

I'm going to renovate my main bathroom in the next few months and I came across Fibo wall panels for the shower as an alternative to tile. Standard 32x60 tub (will be replaced), 48" vanity, toilet, nothing fancy. I don't want to break the bank, but also don't want tile again as cleaning and maintaing the grout has been a PITA over the past 15 years since we initially renovated this bathroom. The 60" wall has a large window in it so a bix box store 3 piece fiberglass wall insert system won't work well from what I have found, I don't think those are made to be cut and have a window trimmed out in the middle of it. The price so far for the Fibo isn't cheap, but not too crazy, and install looks like it's straightforward. Initial quote was around $2,300 for the entire kit with all required install material (sealant, track for panels, fasteners, etc including delivery). I'm doing everything myself, I did the 1st bathroom reno and my entire kitchen a few years ago. I haven't seen much about Fibo or any other finished installation pics other than on the vendors website. Looking to see if anyone has hands on experience with it and what they think of it. Cheers! submitted by /u/eoncire [link] [comments]

Hi, first time poster here. We are doing a flooring improvement project on an really old home (1919). The original joists and pine flooring are still there. There are some small holes in parts of the floor (which we will be patching) but for the most part the flooring is solid. Our flooring guy suggested putting new 1/2 inch plywood over the pine so it's easier to install the engineered hardwood we have for it. We agreed and he ordered it, but he ended up getting 19/32 OSB instead of plywood. We told him that we discussed plywood and that it's what we want installed. He agreed and said he would change the order and get plywood. But now I'm skeptical and I want to make he gets the right one. So my question is what type of plywood do I need to specify he get for subfloors? I was thinking of telling him to get RTD 19/32 plytanium sheathing rated 4x8 boards from Home Depot but I'm not sure if this a good option or do I need to look elsewhere. We plan to use this for the subfloor on top of the original pine board along with a moisture barrier underlayment on top of it and then nail down 9/16 engineered hardwood. Please feel free to provide any alternatives with links but we don't want to use OSB. Also not sure if tongue and groove is something that I need with the underlayment. Thanks so much for your time and response. submitted by /u/Jimboz007 [link] [comments]

Looking for a recommendation for a good sump pump battery backup. I don’t want a backup pump, just a backup power source. Thank you. submitted by /u/LeftLink2 [link] [comments]

The first time I noticed it bubbling up, I scraped it, repainted it. Second time I noticed it, I scraped it, spackled it, repainted it. Now it looks like this. Is the bead rusting out of proximity or is water getting out of my shower under the tile? https://imgur.com/a/8HfjUMd submitted by /u/ak47workaccnt [link] [comments]

I've received a couple quotes, one around $3500 to do a full encapsulation, and another of $2400 to simply improve the insulation in our 400 sq ft crawl space below an addition. The crawl space has never experienced dampness, standing water, or anything that would lead me to believe it needs immediate intervention for encapsulation, so we are leaning towards the second company. The room is very drafty, with 3 exterior walls and steam radiators that were added onto the already existing boiler system. We're in NJ, so hot in the summer and cold in the winter, though it's mostly the winter months I'm more concerned about. The crawl space is below grade, but has zero insulation or air sealing of any kind along the walls and 2 inch insulation batts in the joists. The $2400 quote company would remove the batts and install foam boards along the underside and fill the cavity with blown-in, then air seal with spray foam and foam board along the walls. The space has two vents that they would cover with removable foam boards so they can be open in the summer for air flow. I'm curious if this sounds legitimate, or if the price is steep for the space of this size. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks! submitted by /u/Human-Literature2853 [link] [comments]

Home located in SoCal, built in 1962. These hinges are throughout the house (kitchen, hallway closet, built-ins, etc) so I assume they are original. Can I buy these anywhere? striking out w my meager internet searching skills. link to photos: https://imgur.com/a/KB2qMvt submitted by /u/dickdago [link] [comments]

We had our crawl space encapsulated on our previous house about 10 years ago. Shortly after doing it we noticed a musty smell coming from the HVAC intake. I came across a post with someone having a similar issue and they used radon fans connected to PVC to get rid of the smell. They cut a few holes in the barrier and put the PVC pipe through it and then taped around the pipe. I decided to do the same thing and ran two radon fans with the PVC piped positioned in 5 or 6 different areas pulling air from the ground and then ran the outlet pipe outside of the crawl space. Surprisingly, this got rid or our odor and as long as the fans were running we didn't have the odor. We had the smell no matter if the weather was hot, cold, damp or dry. It never went away unless we had those fans running. Fast forward to today. We bought another house that already has a crawl space that is encapsulated. We are noticing the same smell that we experienced in our other house. Anyone else have this? I have to imagine this is common if we have the same issue in two separate houses. Both houses are in North Carolina. I am wondering if there is a better option to consider instead of running radon fans. I would like to run a few fans that evacuates air out of the crawl space. Any ideas? submitted by /u/Fine_Stay4513 [link] [comments]

Our house was built in 1890’s. 1900 Sqft finished, 1000 sqft semi finished basement that is heated. We live in the UP of MI. All of the house except Large kitchen and bath at back of house was gutted to the studs and all new everything was ran, new insulation, drywall and all the stuff. We still need to do the kitchen but can’t right now. There is no insulation in the plaster and lathe walls in the kitchen, 2 are exterior. And these temps are bad. Plan: drill holes and blow in cellulose between every stud. We currently keep a double thermal curtain up to keep the heat in the rest of the house. It is maintained at 65F during day, 63 at night. The kitchen usually stays at around 60. Right now it’s -15 outside and will -30/-40 for the next 3-4 days. The kitchen is now 54F. We will figure it out for now but we have to get insulation blown in soon. My family has the tools to do this and we can do it from the inside. Any tips please? submitted by /u/ChemicallyAlteredVet [link] [comments]

I have some beech wood furniture, that I want to paint espresso brown. The wood is natural, but it has a laquer on it, to give it sheen. Any good primer and paint recommendations? I'm completely new to this sort of thing. Also, I'm in Canada. Thanks submitted by /u/Gloomyfleur [link] [comments]

I’ve got a hole in my drywall and I’m trying to figure out the best way to fix it. It’s not tiny, but not massive either. I’ve never done drywall repair before. What’s the usual approach here in the US? Patch kit? Spackle? Or should I just call a handyman? Appreciate any tips. submitted by /u/Sharky_Bluejay6767 [link] [comments]

Hi, I want to create a small office in my basement. I have a small room near my water heater and furnace. The room is separated from them with a simple drywall. So I have an insulation ( heat from the stove) and noise issue. What is your best advice for soundproofing that place? I was thinking about buying those acoustic panels that I see online. submitted by /u/slimeh91 [link] [comments]